Susan’s Blog: A hosted 4-day escape to Puglia
- Aug 31
- 4 min read
Earlier this year, I was invited to join Magari Tours on a four-day hosted escape to Puglia, and who knew SJP would love it as much as I did?
Let me share a few highlights from my trip.
We flew into Bari Airport and were greeted by our welcoming hosts, who would guide us through our journey in Puglia.
The adventure began straight away as we travelled to the coastal gem of Monopoli, a town that feels like it was designed for wandering. Its narrow stone streets twist between whitewashed houses, opening suddenly into sun-drenched squares and tiny hidden chapels.
We stopped for lunch at a small, authentic Apulian seafood restaurant where the flavours of the Adriatic took centre stage. Dish after dish of fresh fish arrived at the table, each one better than the last. Had we not been with our hosts, we would probably have walked straight past this little gem.
Our driver then took us through the countryside, past ancient olive groves, and soon the landscape shifted as the iconic cone-shaped rooftops of Alberobello came into view. This would be our home for the next three nights.
Alberobello is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, where over 3,000 traditional trulli houses cluster around its churches and squares, creating a fairytale atmosphere unlike anywhere else I have been.
We were each taken to our own individual trullo, each one unique. As you can see in my room tour below, mine was so spacious I could easily have filled it with a houseful of children.
That evening we dined at Trattoria Terra Madre, a family-run restaurant where local ingredients, especially vegetables, are the stars of the show - much of it grown in their own garden. Puglia's devotion to fresh, local produce is unmistakable, and this first evening set the tone for the days ahead.
After a peaceful night in my trullo, we returned to Trattoria Terra Madre for a breakfast of fresh pastries, warm focaccia, seasonal fruit, eggs, cold meats, cereals and juices.
Our guide for the day led us on a walking tour through Alberobello's most historic districts, Rione Monti and Aia Piccola. These neighbourhoods are home to over a thousand trulli, each one telling its own story.
We even had the privilege of visiting a local farmer in his trullo home, learning first-hand how these remarkable structures were built without mortar and have stood strong for centuries.
From there, our journey continued in a classic Fiat 850T into the countryside to visit the masseria owned by Giovanna and Franco, a place where tradition isn't preserved in museums but lived every single day. Their masseria is a working farm, rich with the scent of hay, warm milk, and the unmistakable feel of family heritage.
Here, we were welcomed into their dairy room, where generations of knowledge have been passed down through skilled hands. Under the guidance of Lucrezia, who learned her craft from her mother and grandmother, we were taught how to make our own mozzarella, pasta and focaccia.
We had lunch here too, tucking into everything we'd just watched Lucrezia prepare. There was nothing on the table that had come from a supermarket.
The following day, we set off to explore the Valle d'Itria, a region of rolling hills, vineyards, olive groves and clusters of trulli villages.
Our first stop was the circular town of Locorotondo, known for its immaculate historic centre and panoramic views.
From there, we travelled to Ostuni, the famous 'White City' perched high on a hill overlooking the Adriatic Sea. Its labyrinth of whitewashed alleys and sunlit terraces feels almost Greek, yet unmistakably Apulian.
On our return to Alberobello, we visited a medieval masseria, a fortified farmhouse, where we sampled some of the finest olive oils in the region. Each tasting revealed a different personality: peppery, fruity, delicate, bold. I couldn't resist bringing two bottles home.
The evening continued with a wine tasting at the family-owned organic Cantina Torricella Winery. Surrounded by vineyards and guided by passionate winemakers, we enjoyed generous pours paired with local snacks.
On our final day we visited Matera, somewhere I had always read about and was thrilled to finally see. This ancient city, carved into stone, is one of the oldest continuously inhabited places in the world. I found it fascinating to explore and got rather carried away with just how many beautiful viewpoints there were.
I loved Puglia. It gave me something different to experience: a real mix of culture and scenery, though if I'm honest, the food probably made the trip.
I travelled with Magari Tours, who offer small group tours in Italy that go beyond the normal tourist trails.
Here's what they offer:
Expert local hosts who treat you like family
Authentic experiences far from the typical tourist trail
Stays in traditional trulli for a once-in-a-lifetime experience
Hand-picked restaurants, wineries and cultural visits
Easy, well organised travel from arrival to departure
If group tours aren't your thing, Puglia is also a wonderful destination for independent travel. If it's somewhere that appeals to you, please get in touch.
Susan x
