Susan's Blog: My return to inspirational Nova Scotia and New Brunswick

It's no secret that I love Canada. The thought of fall foliage and pumpkins was simply too much to resist, so an autumn trip was always on the cards.

With Covid airline credit still sitting with WestJet, I flew premium economy from Gatwick to Halifax, Nova Scotia - revisiting areas I'd explored over 15 years ago, discovering some new places and spending time in Saint John, New Brunswick with old friends.

There is so much to share that I'll just pick out the highlights!

Cape Breton Island

Reached by crossing the rock-fill Canso Causeway, Cape Breton Island sits at the north-eastern tip of Nova Scotia. I'd visited in spring last time, so experiencing it in autumn was a completely different and equally breathtaking proposition.

I based myself in Baddeck for a couple of nights - a lovely town on the shores of the Bras d'Or Lake, a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve right in the heart of the island.

The Alexander Graham Bell National Historic Site is here, celebrating the life and inventions of Bell, who used the area as his summer residence and research hub. The house remains privately owned by his descendants, but you can see it from the water - which I did on a beautiful boat trip that also treated me to stunning coastline and plenty of Bald Eagles.

I stayed at the Silver Dart Lodge, named after the first powered aircraft to fly in Canada and the British Empire, which made its maiden flight over the frozen Bras d'Or Lake in 1909. Rooms and restaurant both overlook the lake - and I enjoyed the most amazing lobster dinner, complete with seafood chowder, mussels and pudding. As if I needed it!

No trip to Cape Breton is complete without driving the Cabot Trail - a 298km scenic loop through the Cape Breton Highlands National Park. Coastal views, lush highlands, charming fishing villages and in autumn, a riot of red, gold and orange against deep green forest and sparkling blue Atlantic Ocean. Quite a sight!

I broke the drive with an overnight stop and another seafood dinner in Cheticamp, a proud Acadian fishing village on the western edge of the trail and one of the best spots in Cape Breton for whale watching.

Pictou

Often called the Birthplace of New Scotland, Pictou is a small coastal town on the Northumberland Shore, along the Northumberland Strait, the stretch of ocean that separates Nova Scotia from Prince Edward Island (PEI).

In 1773, a ship called the Hector arrived here carrying Scottish settlers - one of the first major waves of immigration to Nova Scotia. At the Hector Heritage Quay you can tour a full-scale replica of the ship and get a real sense of that remarkable journey.

Pretty waterfront, small town charm and a lovely spot for an overnight stay.

Shediac and the New Brunswick Coast

Shediac proudly calls itself the Lobster capital of the world - and is home to an 11-metre giant lobster statue to prove it!

But the real surprise was beautiful Parlee Beach Provincial Park, which has some of the warmest saltwater in Canada. In October we had unseasonably hot weather reaching 30 degrees, making it perfect for a long beach walk.

Just under an hour north is Kouchibouguac National Park (pronounced "Koo-she-boo-gwack") - pine forests, salt marshes, coastal lagoons, over 60 km of flat, scenic trails - ideal for biking, walking, or cross-country skiing in winter. And over 300 species of birds, making it one of Canada’s top bird watching destinations. Diverse, beautiful and well worth the detour.

The Bay of Fundy

I couldn't visit without returning to the Bay of Fundy and the famous Hopewell Rocks. The Bay has the highest tides in the world - at low tide you can walk on the ocean floor, and just hours later the same spot is under deep water.

The famous "flowerpot rocks" are tall, narrow towers with trees growing on top, like giant natural flowerpots on the beach. Last time I visited at low tide and walked right up to them - this time it was high tide, so I admired them from dry land!

The water's distinctive chocolate-brown colour comes from the extraordinary tidal movement churning up mud, clay and silt.

I also explored Fundy National Park - rugged cliffs, red-sand beaches, salt marshes and panoramic ocean views, plus over 100km of trails, 25 waterfalls and an Acadian Forest that in autumn was simply ablaze with colour.

Why visit the Maritimes?

Stunning coastlines, dramatic tides, vibrant fall forests, charming small towns, rich history, incredible fresh seafood and endless outdoor adventures - all at a wonderfully relaxed pace.

I hope this has inspired you to consider this very special part of Canada. You know where to find me if you want to chat about your own Canada adventure!

SJP x